Review: Masson Mills - A Giant Re-Awakening
- Paul Baker
- May 7
- 6 min read
Updated: May 9
When you are part of a World Heritage Site and located alongside one of the UK's most popular National Parks, and the Matlock Bath attractions, in a village well served with public transport, one might assume that Masson Mills is blessed with every advantage. Yet my visit revealed a heritage site very much in a state of transition, striving to find its place within a busy and competitive marketplace. There’s ‘trouble at mill’ — and Heritage Thinking Differently is ready to roll up its sleeves and get to work.
Let’s begin with the Derwent Valley World Heritage Site, where Masson Mills marks the most northerly point, on the edge of the Peak District in Derbyshire. The World Heritage Site comprises four principal settlements: Darley Abbey, Milford, Belper and Cromford, alongside Derby’s Silk Mill. As visitor attractions, the Museum of Making at Derby Silk Mill and Cromford Mill are the most firmly established. Belper once boasted a museum too, but this has since closed, its collection now relocated to Cromford Mill and the future of the North Mill remains uncertain. This relocation has undoubtedly strengthened Cromford’s offer (and improved the visitor experience), but the relationship between the two organisations is still in its infancy; it will be fascinating to observe how this opportunity develops.
Cromford itself is synonymous with the towering mills built by Sir Richard Arkwright, whose nearby home and grave add a personal dimension to the village’s story. Alongside the well-known Cromford Mill, the village also boasts a second, equally substantial building — Masson Mills. Until its closure in 2020, Masson has (in its latter years) been primarily associated with its shopping village, the larger building housing an assortment of retail outlets and a multi-storey car park. As a result, the site became more recognised for shopping than for leisure or heritage. Prior to its closure, I visited sporadically, but Cromford Mill remained the stronger pull for those seeking an authentic Arkwright mill heritage experience.
Following several years of dormancy, the museum element at Masson Mills reopened in 2023. The social media imagery of its revitalised café and shop was enticing enough to earn it a place on my must-visit list. I must confess, throughout its earlier incarnation, I never ventured into the historic areas. My feeble excuse? I had visited similar sites elsewhere and, finding them uninspiring and unnecessarily technical (and for a specialist audience), I unfairly assumed Masson would be the same. Furthermore, the shopping village never left a particularly favourable impression, and I allowed that perception to colour my expectations.
However, by 2025, enough promising images had emerged to suggest that the new custodians had crafted a beautiful café and retail space. Although the shopping village remains empty, giving parts of the site a tired and unloved appearance, curiosity finally got the better of me — and thus, this review was born.
This preamble serves to explain my initial low expectations. Upon arrival, entry was through the café and shop, and I was immediately struck by the décor — textiles and machinery creatively incorporated into a uniquely atmospheric setting. The staff were welcoming and evidently proud of their workplace. After purchasing a ticket for a self-guided tour, I was gently steered towards the museum entrance steps.
From the road, I was familiar with the grandeur of the 1783 building and, frankly, expected to find a modest exhibition within, adorned with dated interpretation panels and a few eager volunteers. I could not have been more wrong.
While the first temporary exhibition confirmed 'some' of my assumptions — fabulous content and use of audio, but more could have been done with the space, theatricality, and impact — I pressed on to the factory floor, and nothing could have prepared me for what awaited. The sheer scale of the space was breathtaking, each room alive with the sounds of working machinery. Interior and exterior spaces flowed seamlessly, each offering something unique: vividly coloured cotton displays, atmospheric, dimly lit workshops, and an array of different processes captured in action.
Having visited many mills over the years, I have observed that while some celebrate the beauty of decay and others are sterile or overly interpreted, Masson Mills strikes a rare balance. It is one of the most thrilling industrial sites I have encountered. It is a working factory yet not constrained by a single process; every turn revealed a new surprise, a new vignette. There is a theatricality to the spaces that kept me eagerly anticipating what lay beyond each door.
Interpretation is sparse and, where present, somewhat dated. QR codes were scattered about but were neither especially effective nor user-friendly. Nevertheless, the visceral visual experience more than compensated. The team’s enthusiasm and knowledge further enhanced the experience, adding a personal, human connection. Someone at a senior decision making level appreciates the importance of drama and theatricality as a means of drawing audiences in. The site does not make the mistake of bombarding visitors with technical information and specialist content, but rather it creates an environment where visitors ask questions at their own pace. The spaces playfully flirt with the audience and tempt them closer. Someone on site understands interpretation, the power of changing vistas, and subtle storytelling.
Aside from the possiblity of updating the interpretational devices (and using this sparingly), my only other observation concerns the absence of broader context — particularly around Arkwright himself, international trade, the workers, and the decline of the industry. These are crucial stories that deserve to be told. Fortunately, there is ample space to develop additional exhibitions or interactive experiences if funding permits. However, they would be wise to allocate a designated space for this rather than risk harming the authenticity of the workshops.
From a business perspective, there are clear opportunities. The café, while beautifully designed, would benefit from a strengthened offer: a revised menu, higher pricing, and a broader culinary appeal. As highlighted in the Guardian’s recent feature on the 50 Best Museum Cafés (referenced in a previous blog - see link below), a strong food and beverage offer can elevate a museum’s appeal immeasurably. The café and shop could easily become destinations in their own right with the right strategy. Furthermore, the site might consider hosting small scale live events or activities to diversify its revenue streams.
Each site within the Derwent Valley World Heritage Site tells a distinct story. The Museum of Making in Derby celebrates the city’s industrial past and future. Cromford Mill stands proudly as the premier Arkwright destination. Yet Masson Mills offers something uniquely compelling: an authentic working mill, a monument to the textile workers, its story told through living machinery and tangible processes. Seen as a whole the sites offer an enviable educational opportunity.
In an ideal world, Masson Mills and Cromford Mill would be presented as a unified visitor offer. Their proximity and the scenic riverside walk linking them would support a truly full-day experience. The also benefit from their proximity to the main artery through the area and good train and bus links. However, Masson’s private ownership — as opposed to a charitable trust model — may present challenges that will require sensitive navigation. If this can be resolved it could potentially release additional funding and investment.
Masson’s future success hinges, to some extent, on the fate of the former shopping village. Currently, the empty building casts a shadow over the site, creating a sense of inaction and decay. Yet it also presents a tremendous opportunity and I am aware that plans are afoot. Other World Heritage Sites, such as Salts Mill in Saltaire, have shown how retail and dining destinations can successfully complement heritage offers. With creativity and vision, Masson could follow suit, and the region would be all the better for this.
In short, Masson Mills has been a revelation. Despite its (current) low profile and the lingering presence of the former shopping village, it is the most dynamic and theatrical mill in the Derwent Valley. With improved kerb appeal, stronger branding, an engaging events programme, and by leveraging its prime position on the A6 with generous parking, it could become a major attraction.
This is the mill the World Heritage Site needs. It only requires the audience it so richly deserves.
Paul Baker
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These are fantastic comments and this is exactly what we wanted to create with the Museum over 20 years ago! I’ve worked in Masson Mills all of my life including when it was a Cotton Mill! We never wanted to create a sterile environment but to give the impression that the workers had just finished their shift and gone home! (This I think we achieved in abundance) This Mill is the Jewel in the crown of all of Arkwrights Mill in my eyes and i strive to continue the authenticity that we created for future generations of people to come and enjoy!